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Thứ Tư, 5 tháng 9, 2012

When to Go to Vietnam



Think Vietnam and you might imagine a steamy jungle and hot sun -- and you'd be mostly right. But even though Vietnam is tropical, you'll find a real range, from chilly mountaintops and cool highland areas to sun-drenched coastline and, yes, that steamy jungle, too, laced with the swampy rivers you've seen in movies.
Opposing monsoon seasons in the north and south mean that seasonal changes are different in north, central, and south Vietnam. The good news for travelers is that this means it's always high season somewhere in Vietnam, and the tropical south is always warm. Vietnam can be broken into three distinct geographical and climatic zones as follows: north, central, and south.
The north is cooler than the rest of the country. Winter months, from November until January, can be quite cool, especially in mountainous areas. Northern temperatures range from 60°F to 90°F (16dg]C-32°C). If you are going far north to Sapa or Dien Bien Phu along the China/Laos border, be sure to bring one extra layer of warmth (a pullover will do); near Sapa is Fansipan, Vietnam's highest point, and there is even the occasional freeze and snow at this altitude. Hanoi, the capital and in the north, as well as nearby coastal regions around Haiphong and Halong Bay,experience relatively high humidity year-round and a rainy season from May to October. Winter months are cool (as low as 57°F/14°C) and somewhat damp, but the heat starts to pick up in April and makes for a hot, wet summer (many Hanoians get out of town, to the mountain towns or nearby beaches off Haiphong or Vinh). The best time to visit the north, though cold in midwinter, is from November to the end of April.
The Central Coast follows an opposing monsoon pattern to the north, with warmer weather during the July-to-October high season on, and wet, colder weather from November to May. Coastal Vietnam -- Quy Nhon and Nha Trang -- experiences steamy temperatures like the far south (70°F-90°F/21°C-32°C), but coastal wind can have a cooling effect. Raging storms and frequently large typhoons strike the coast in summer months, from July to November; often during this season, the surf is too rough for swimming.
The Central Highlands, just inland and on the southern end of theAnnamese Cordillera range, receives nearly double the rainfall of the national average, and this plateau, in towns like Dalat andPleiku, is cool throughout the year.

The south, the region around Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, is steamy hot year-round with only periods of rainy and dry weather. Temperatures range from 70°F to 90°F (21°C-32°C), with a hot, dry period from March to May seeing temperatures in the 90s(30s Celsius). Summers are hot, humid, and rainy.
Because of the regional variations in weather, a part of the country is seasonable at any time of year. Most travelers in Vietnam trace a north-south or south-north route with flights connecting on either end (or adding continued travel to Cambodia or China). Depending on the duration of your stay, you can plan to "follow" the good weather, hitting Saigon in February or March and tracing warmer weather up the coast.
Note: Avoid travel during the Tet holiday in January and February. Tet is a Christmas and New Year's celebration rolled into one, and anyone and everyone is going "over the river and through the woods" to their respective grandmother's house. Transport is always fully booked. Unless you're lucky enough to enjoy Tet with a Vietnamese family, be forewarned: During this time, many travelers find themselves stranded, hotels completely full, and roadways crowded with traffic and revelers.

Source: The NewYork Times

Thứ Hai, 28 tháng 5, 2012

Buddhism in Vietnam


 

In theory there are three main religions in Vietnam: Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism; but in fact there is “tripple religion”, which is an amalgamation of these three doctrines, each of which represents a particular aspect of the whole. And now Buddhism still is main religion in Vietnam.
Buddhism spread first from China to Vietnam's Red River Delta region in approximately the second century A.D., and then from India to the southern Mekong Delta area at some time between the third and the sixth centuries. The Chinese version, Mahayana Buddhism, became the faith of most Vietnamese, whereas the Indian version, Theravada (or Hinayana) Buddhism, was confined mostly to the southern delta region. The doctrinal distinction between the two consists of their differing views of Gautama Buddha: the Mahayana school teaches that Gautama was only one of many "enlightened ones" manifesting the fundamental divine power of the universe; the Theravada school teaches that Gautama was the one-and-only enlightened one and the great teacher, but that he was not divine. The Mahayana sect holds further that laypersons can attain nirvana, whereas the Theravada school believes that only ordained monks and nuns can do so.







At the 13 century, during the Tran dynasty (1225-1400), the first 3 Kings Trần Thái Tôn, Trần Thánh Tông, Trần Nhân Tông and many high-ranking mandarins and royal members were Zen Buddhists. Among them King Trần Nhân Tông was the most prominent, being the founder of Trúc Lâm Yên Tử Zen School after his retirement from the throne in 1299. The essence of Truc Lam Yen Tu Zen school is to “live the dharma” and Trần Nhân Tông’s life is the illustrated example. Trần Nhân Tông’s Truc Lam Yen Tu Zen School marked the beginning and foundation of Vietnamese Buddhism, which is exemplified by the tenet, “Dharma applied to worldly life,” all of the characteristics of which are outlined in the verse Cư Trần Lạc Đạo. In this interpretation of Buddhism, practicing Buddhism is not limited to ritual activities, worship, and meditation, but right within daily activities. There is no need to search for enlightenment and peace anywhere outside of self and of the environment one lives in.


Vietnamese Buddhism continues to hold this supremacy in our own time. It is therefore easy to understand how great an influence the Buddha has had on the Vietnamese mind, and the generous contribution it has made to the moral and spiritual training of a people whose gentleness and simple outlook on life predisposed them to accept the «Religion of Compassion.»
The presence of the dead, the behaviour of the living, and an influence on the future - the many generations of the Vietnamese family


Ancestor worship was introduced into Vietnam by the Chinese during their long occupation of the country that began 200 years before the birth of Christ. Since then, it has been fully absorbed into the Vietnamese consciousness and, with Confucianism, underpins the country’s religion and social fabric.
Ancestor worship is not only the adhesive that binds the Vietnamese together, but also one of the most difficult concepts for people from Anglo-Saxon or European origins to understand. It has been said that the Vietnamese believe in the dead, while the Occidentals believe only in death.
How Vietnamese people worship their ancestors

The practice of ancestor worship is relatively straightforward. Nearly every house, office, and business in Vietnam has a small altar which is used to commune with ancestors. Incense sticks are burned frequently. Offerings are made – fruit, sweets, and gifts. The latter items are paper replicas of dollar notes (‘ghost money’), motorbikes, cars, houses and so on. After worship, the paper gifts are burnt so that the spirits of the gifts can ascend to heaven for the ancestors to use. In the past, the income from a plot of land was used to maintain the altar and arrange the rituals, but this tradition has now faded away. However, the custom that the eldest son will arrange the ceremonial and inherit the family house upon the death of his parents is still generally observed.


Another traditional element is the placing of wooden tablets on the altar for each of the ancestors over recent generations. This is less rigorously observed today, and tablets are often replaced by photographs. Some pagodas house commemorative tablets for ancestors on behalf of regular worshippers.


Worshipping takes place regularly on particular days, such as festivals, new and full moon days, the death day of the ancestor, and so on. On important occasions, such as moving house, starting a new business or the birth of a child, and whenever a member of the family needs guidance or a favour, the ancestors are consulted.


A proliferation of small fires of burning in the streets of towns and cities means that it is a festival or moon day. One paper fire is likely to be an event affecting a single family.


Why Vietnamese people worship their ancestors

For the Vietnamese, ancestor worship is not related to ghosts, spiritualism or even the supernatural in the Western sense. It is not even a ‘belief’ in the sense that it is open to question by the ‘believers’. The Vietnamese accept as a fact that their ancestors continue to live in another realm, and that it is the duty of the living to meet their needs. In return, the ancestors give advice and bring good fortune.


Devotees of Buddhism believe in previous existences, and seek to correct previous bad deeds to reach enlightenment. Ancestor worship is fundamentally different. For the Vietnamese, death, and the ritual and practice of ancestor worship, constitutes the transfer of power from the tangible life to the intangible. Existence is a continuum stretching through birth, a life spent in tangible form on Earth, followed by death and a spirit existence in another realm for a further two or three generations.


The heroic ancestors

By virtue of their worthy deeds, heroic ancestors, such as Tran Hung Dao and the Trung sisters, continue to exist and be worshipped in temples for many generations beyond the two or three of ordinary folk. Their rectitude is a model to guide the behaviour of the living.


The sins of the parents

All ancestors are worthy of respect and reverence, regardless of their behaviour as living beings. However, the misdeeds of a wicked family ancestor will be visited upon his or her children and grandchildren in the form of bad luck. This is a powerful influence upon the behaviour of the living, influencing them to behave well and do good deeds in the present, thereby endowing their living and unborn children with good luck in the future.


How ancestor worship affects life in Vietnam

The effect of ancestor worship upon Vietnamese society is profound. The concept of life as a small part of an infinitely greater whole embracing the entire race, the notion that the past and present exist simultaneously and that each individual’s behaviour in life has a direct impact upon the quality of the lives of his or her children and grandchildren, extend the concept of the family far beyond the sense in which the term is used in the West. A Vietnamese person is never ‘alone’ – his or her ‘family’ is always present.


The future of ancestor worship

Whether ancestor worship will continue to be strong as the influence of scientific rationalism and social change accelerates, is an open question. In the past, the majority of individual family members lived within close geographical proximity. The turmoil in the years before and after the defeat of the US forces led to an exodus of hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese people. More recently, economic migration and travel to far countries to study or work have created a growing diaspora. Only time will determine whether the strength of the beliefs that have sustained the Vietnamese family unit over many centuries, thus creating a unique national community, will withstand the pressures of globalisation and expanding modern technology.

Source: passionvietnamtravel

Thứ Sáu, 18 tháng 5, 2012

In Two Weeks





This is a truncated version of the 28-day itinerary. You can see quite a lot in a few weeks and catch the major sights along the coast.

Day 1: Arrive in Hanoi
Get settled somewhere cozy (I recommend the Sofitel Metropole), and then take a walk (or cyclo ride) around the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake.
Day 2: Hanoi to Lao Cai (Sapa)
Enjoy a morning of touring the main sights in the Hanoi Citadel, including Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum (before 11am), House, and Museum, and the One-Pillar Pagoda. In the early evening, catch the overnight train for Lao Cai (best on a Victoriasleeper car).
Day 3: Lao Cai to Sapa
Arrive in Lao Cai at 6am and hop on a bus for transfer to Sapa. Check in to your hotel -- I recommend the Topas Ecolodge -- and take an afternoon walk down into the valley lined with rice terraces to the Cat Cat Village, or hire a guide for an all-day hike (after a short jeep ride) from Lao Cai to Ta Van. Alternatively, just take in the little town of Sapa, the rice-terraced valley below, and the central market crowded with Hmong people.
Day 4: Sapa to Bac Ha and back to Hanoi
If it's a Sunday, take a day trip to the market town outside of Lao Cai called Bac Ha, the region's most colorful hilltribe market. Otherwise, plan to spend part of the day trekking (contact Topas or Handspan), and then catch an early evening overnight train from Lao Cai back to Hanoi (factor in the few hours from Bac Ha or Sapa to Lao Cai station).
Day 5: Lao Cai to Hanoi
Arrive at 6am in the capital and take some time to rest in comfy city digs. Explore the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem, and maybe do a bit of shopping. Catch a show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater in the evening, or hit some of the town's fine-dining establishments or nightlife.
Day 6: Hanoi to Halong Bay
Leave early in the morning for a 3-hour drive to the pier at Halong City, and then board an overnight boat in the bay -- best aboard the luxury Emeraude or Halong Ginger;one notch down is Buffalo Tour's Jewel of the Bay or Handspan Tour's Dragon's Pearl. You'll lunch aboard the ship, cruise for a few hours with stops at various cave sites, and then sleep aboard the boat moored in a quiet bay. Itineraries vary, and most include time for kayaking to caves and island lagoons and swimming.
Day 7: Halong Bay to Hanoi and on to Hue
Awake to sunlight reflecting off the high limestone formations of stunning Halong Bay. Most trips include a morning kayak adventure and a few stops before returning to the pier and making the 3-hour road connection to Hanoi. Catch the afternoon (4:30pm) flight from Hanoi to Hue (or overnight in Hanoi and fly in the morning).
Day 8: Hue
Set out on a tour by bicycle or cyclo to the central Hue Citadel and the ruins of the oldImperial City. In the afternoon, you can ride a bike -- though it's slightly far -- or arrange a car to a few sights on the outskirts of town. You can arrange a boat to see the likes of the Thien Mu Pagoda and a few of Hue's many imperial tombs -- best are the tombs of Khai Dinh and Minh Mang Tomb or Tu Duc. In the evening, enjoy dinner atTropical Garden or Club Garden, and then stroll along the Perfume River near theTrang Tien Bridge.
Day 9: Hue to Hoi An
In the afternoon, leave by car or minivan for Hoi An. Along the way, stop at Lang Co Beach, the overlook at Hai Van Pass, the Cham Museum in Danang, and, time permitting, the Marble Mountains. Overnight in Hoi An. If you arrive before the shops close, place an order for your tailored clothes.
Day 10: Hoi An
Follow Day 13 in the 28-day itinerary, above, hitting the beach or exploring town.
Day 11: Hoi An to Nha Trang (via Danang)
Fly from Danang (via a trip to the Marble Mountains in the morning if you've yet to go) and settle in Nha Trang for a few days of beach time. Rest and relax at the Evason Ana Mandara Resort or one of the many good budget options around.
Day 12: Nha Trang
Enjoy the beach, take a scuba course, hop on an all-day boat trip to outlying islands, or hit the city's few nearby sights (the Po Ngar Cham Towers or the Alexandre Yersin Museum). Morning trips to the city market or the fish market near the Po Ngar Cham Towers are popular for photographers. But don't feel pressed -- Nha Trang is a place to kick back, eat good seafood, and rest.
Day 13: Nha Trang to Ho Chi Minh City
You might consider adding a few days at this point and scoot up to the temperate hill town of Dalat or tour part of the Central Highlands. Otherwise, fly to Ho Chi Minh City.
Day 14: Ho Chi Minh City
In the morning, get an early start at Giac Lam Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh City's oldest, and then tour Chinatown and some temples, as well as the large Chinese market, Binh Te Market (all in far-off District 5), before returning to the city center and Ben Thanh Market -- a good place to wander and pick up a few ditties. Stop for lunch at Pho 2000, just adjacent to the market. Time permitting, hit the War Remnants Museum or theReunification Palace. Enjoy a meal at Quan An Ngon RestaurantVietnam's finest purveyor of authentic Vietnamese cuisine in an authentic local setting (there are lots of gussied-up high-end Vietnamese restaurants in town, but funky Ngon takes the cake). Depart.
Going South to North
Note: If arriving in the south (most likely in Ho Chi Minh City), you can reverse this 2-week itinerary. Many travelers include a trip to the Mekong Delta, staying 1 night inCan Tho and exploring the river markets in the area instead of going to Sapa in the far north
.
Source: The New York Times

Thứ Tư, 18 tháng 4, 2012

A bite of Hue in Saigon



Hue food reminds one of not only sophisticated royal dishes but also simple culinary delights made of the best ingredients from river, green field and mountain in this former capital of Vietnam.
Be it a royal dinner or a simple bánh bèo, Hue food does not merely fill the stomach, it delights discerning palates that appreciate flavor, style and sophistication.
Among the many restaurants serving Hue food in Ho Chi Minh City, Nam Giao is the most famous. Set in a lane off Le Thanh Ton Street near Ben Thanh Market, Nam Giao is named after an open-air altar stage built in Hue in early 19th century where the kings of the Nguyen Dynasty performed offering ritual ceremony in the Spring to honor the Heaven and the Earth.
The cacophony of motorbike horns and market sellers fades away as one enters this restaurant. Though it is packed most of the time, the interiors of the restaurant are peaceful, relaxing, even intimate.
In a small garret on the second floor, diners sit on a wooden floor around a narrow bamboo table feasting on Hue specialties.
The restaurant is popular among not only locals, but also expats and tourists looking for authentic Hue cuisine. And Nam Giao has plenty of those.
The restaurant’s menu boasts of more than a hundred dishes, from appetizers to entreés, snacks and desserts.

NAM GIAO RESTAURANT
136/15 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, HCMC
116 Suong Nguyet Anh Street, District 1, HCMC
Hordes of Hue food lovers throng to Nam Giao for its exquisite bánh bèo (a fern-shaped cake), gi cun (spring roll) and mít trn (jackfruit salad).
“I often head to Nam Giao with close friends for dinner. I also like to introduce authentic Hue food to my expat friends,” said Nguyen Thu Van, a fashion designer.
The most popular dishes on the menu are mít trn, cơm hến and bánh bèo – all of which take much care and time to prepare in the kitchen.
To make mít trn, young jackfruit is boiled for hours before being chopped finely. Other ingredients such as thinly sliced boiled shrimp and pork, rau răm (smartweed), fish sauce and lime are prepared meanwhile. Everything is tossed together in a wok with a spoonful of oil, and roasted sesame and nuts are added to create mít trn.
The boiled and sliced jackfruit has neutrality that absorbs the various flavors of pork, shrimp, crunchy nuts and sesame. Mít trn is a dish truly representative of Hue cuisine.
Cơm hến is a country dish of rice and baby clams, preferably harvested from Huong Giang, or Hue’s Perfume River.
Separating the tiny clams from their shells is a tedious and time-consuming process. To make cơm hến, the shelled clams are boiled and added to rice, which is cooked in the clam broth. Slices of banana flowers, star fruit, bean sprouts, mint and other herbs provide flavor and texture.
Sliced chili, fried nuts and fried pork fat are added to the mix, and the dish is served with a spicy clam broth.
Bánh bèo is another popular dish. To make it, boiled rice powder is poured into dozens of tiny bowls, then ruc tôm (powdered shrimp), fried spring onion and small pieces of pork crackling are sprinkled on the surface. Bánh bèo is served with sweet and sour fish sauce fortified with sliced chili. It’s an eye-catching dish owing to the contrasting colors and the arrangement of bowls on a round bamboo plate.
Hue food is made of ingredients from a land of diverse geography and oozes love of family.
Most people come to Nam Giao to enjoy Hue flavors with their families and friends. For others, this restaurant is a place to reminisce about time spent and flavors discovered in the former feudal capital city.


Source: thanhniennews

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